Monday 14 September 2015

Chalons-en-Champagne to Langres

Four days after leaving Chalons we arrived back at La Vinaigerie, the lovely private mooring in Joinville where we had left the car following our trip to the UK. But the journey had not been without incident. 

Day 1 A mad Dutchman nearly ran us aground after overtaking us at speed on a narrow stretch of canal. 
Day 2 We were so busy chatting we completely missed the turn off to Vitry and were heading back down the Marne au Rhin, fortunately the Captain managed to turn us around without a problem. 
Day 3 A large boat appeared just as we were putting ropes on in a lock and insisted on coming in behind us and pushing us dangerously close to the front gates. After some 'discussion' (ahem!) between the two Capitains the VNF Man who was busy hooking out weed agreed to operate the lock manually and slowly. We let him pass us and go on ahead after that. A lot of people seem to be in a rush at the moment, presumably wanting to get back to winter bases. 
Day 4 was a much nicer hindrance though. A lock keeper had spotted a large freshwater turtle in the lock as it was being prepared for us and held us up whilst he tried to let it out. He obviously failed though as up it popped as we were going up! 

So when we moored up in Joinville late Saturday afternoon we were ready for a few days rest. Narrowboat Matilda Rose was moored in front and we introduced ourselves to Jill and Graham. The weather had turned extremely hot again and we had a lovely couple of evenings eating and drinking outside with them and their animal crew, Baxter and Mutley the Tibetan terriers and Daisy the cat! After introducing the boys to anchovies (which they loved!) I was half expecting a knock on the boat from Jill next morning to go and clear up the mess.



One morning super- fit Jill decided she needed to get some exercise despite the heat and took off down the canal in her kayak. Didn't make the rest of us feel guilty though,we stayed in our chairs under the trees!


The morning we were set to move on there was another little drama. Chris decided to pop down to Lidl when they opened as it was the first day of their wine fair and bargains were to be had. A Belgian couple in a large barge came steaming past our moored boats waving cheerily unknowingly causing havoc pulling our pins out of the ground. We were still tied on to a bollard at the stern but the rest of the boat was now drifting across the canal. Fortunately I had help at hand from Graham but when Chris returned they decided to get in the car and go and meet the Belgian boat at the next lock. I think the guy was left quaking in his boots with all colour drained from his face. Hopefully it will make him slow down past moored boats in future.

We finally got on our way and calm and serenity were restored once more. The scenery just got better and better and we stopped for the night at one of the most picturesque, peaceful spots at Villiers-sur-Marne.


Next day we moved on to Froncles and as were coming into the mooring this little piggy came out to greet us. Reminded me of my childhood as I grew up with pigs at the bottom of our garden!


Froncles was another very pretty mooring but also extremely popular with camper vans who seemed to have taken over the port, and also thought they had the right to fish off the pontoon, visibly tutting at any boats that dared to want to moor up. Cheek!


We went on a long bike ride in the afternoon to the lovely village of Vouecourt (that's me on the cycle path) and discovered its old lavoir. It's very well preserved, as if it had only just stopped being used.



Imagine doing your washing like this


We usually meet one or two commercial barges on this canal each day. After last year on the Seine we are not intimidated by them now although it can still be a bit stressful passing so closely on a narrow canal.

No room to spare as they come out of the lock

Captain skilfully passes round them, I'm not brave enough to do that yet!

Autumn is letting itself in gently, warm sunny days but cooler nights and misty mornings. We spent the night here at Foulain on our way to Langres and took this photo on the way to the boulangerie at 7.30am.

 
We arrived in Langres on Thursday so that we could meet up with friends on 3 other boats, Pete and Glen on Slo Motion, Andy on Edwina Rose and Sandy on Liberte with her two visitors from the UK, Will and Georgie. We gathered on the picnic table for communal aperos, a lovely evening with lovely people.


Next morning we waved au revoir to Edwina Rose and Liberte then headed off to explore the town. The Canal entre Champagne et Bourgogne is a summit canal and we have now reached the summit here at Langres. All the locks we have come through so far have been taking us up. When we leave here we shall be starting the descent. Going down in locks is always so much easier. 
 The town is 2 kilometres steeply uphill from the port. We decided to catch the bus (free today as it was market day) and save our energy for the 3.5 kilometre walk around the ramparts. It is said to be the longest complete fortified city wall in Europe with 12 towers, 7 gates and several bell towers which have been standing for centuries. The views are amazing, you can see as far as the horizon over 360 degrees.


Porte des Moulins (17th century gate)

Langres is on the borders of the two regions, Champagne and Borgogne. The beautiful tiled roof of Saint Mammes Cathedral is typical Burgundian style.

We thought we deserved a nice lunch after that. We were told that Le Cheval Blanc (The White Horse) was probably the best restaurant in town of Michelin star quality and the lunchtime menu at 20 euros for 3 courses seemed reasonable.


We both enjoyed our meals. There were only 3 choices for each course. I picked the fish for main and Chris chose the beef although it somehow didn't look quite like beef. I had asked what 'tetine de boeuf' actually was before we ordered and the waiter had indicated thinly cut slices from some part of the cow. Anyway, he enjoyed it and ate every bit although did say he thought I had a little smirk on my face. I was thinking the word 'tete', head, possibly brain? Or tongue, it looked tongue shaped, that's not too bad eh? But when I Iooked it up back onboard it translated as udder!! You should have seen the look on his little face, he won't live that one down for a while!



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