Tuesday 25 August 2015

Trip to the UK then to Champagne

We had a lovely week in the UK spending quality time with family. Our worries about problems at Calais tunnel were unfounded and we had the easiest crossings we have ever had. Our friends from New Zealand and Oz refer to it as ' jumping the ditch' as to them the distance between France and the UK is so small.

The parents-to-be and four excited first time grandparents-to-be

Back to France and we turn the boat around at Joinville and head for the Champagne region up to Epernay. First stop was at the delightful little halte at Chamouilley where Sandy from Liberte invited us for dinner on my birthday eve. We had a lovely evening with her then moved on to Saint Dizier where we had arranged to meet our Kiwi and Aussie friends. We hadn't managed to get together since leaving St Jean in May so it was great to see them all again. 

Here they come! Chris helping the two boats moor up, Winedown and Le Gannet.

In the afternoon we all set off for a look around the town and a spot of retail therapy ending up in a pavement cafe for drinks, back for a quick change, all over to our boat for aperos then out to dinner. A fun day with lots of laughs, thanks for a great birthday celebration guys, and especially to Ian for bringing the band along! 


Also moored on the quay with us at Saint Dizier was Aquabelle, one of the historic Dunkirk Little Ships, on her way home to her base in the South of France after visiting the UK for the commemorative 75th anniversary of the WW2 evacuation of Dunkirk. 


We continued on our way passing through Vitry le Francois, where we did not like the look of the moorings, and then out onto the Canal Lateral a la Marne. The remote control for the locks was taken from us at Vitry and we now have to twist the perches hanging over the canal to set the locks in motion.


We liked this canal, wide and deep with plenty of water and pretty scenery. The weather had continued to be glorious and it was a pleasure to set off early in the mornings in the sunshine with the birds singing. We had a lovely wild mooring one night under the stars and cooked outside. Chris picked me some wild sweet peas, romance is not dead! 


As we cruised into Chalons-en-Champagne we had our first view of Saint Etienne Cathedral which is close to the port. The port itself is set in a park, Grand Jard, parts of which have been turned into a 'beach' at the waterside for the summer. An ideal mooring for people watching although it often felt like we were the ones being watched as people were fascinated by our English barge.


After mooring up and sorting ourselves out we headed as we always do for the Tourist Office for maps and information on what to see and do. This has to win the prize for the prettiest Tourist Office we have seen.


Nearly 80% of the historical centre comprises timber frame houses dating back to the15th century.


Water is everywhere in Chalons - the River Marne, its tributaries Mau and Nau and the canal. They call it The Sparkling Venice. Outside the Tourist Office we got onto one of the electric boats for a trip around the small canals that encircle the city centre and in parts disappear below the streets. Sound and light were projected onto the roof of the tunnels as the silent little boat went through.


We were able to see many of the main monuments of the city from a different perspective.

Chateau du Marche

Church of Notre-Dame-en-Vaux

Not quite a gondola though!

And so at last to Epernay, capital of the Champagne region and one of its wealthiest towns. It didn't take us long to find the famous Avenue de Champagne, a gorgeously grand street on which all the big labels have their 'houses'. Moet et Chandon have pride of place on the Avenue but unfortunately were not offering tours until October. Their boutique was open though so we went in for views of the lovely terrace.


We went on the Castellan tour instead which we thought was very good value at 13 euros a head for a very informative tour of the the cellars and production floor, a museum and access to the top of its landmark tower with wonderful views of the vineyards encircling the town. Oh, and not forgetting the tasting of course!


We were told that there are 110 kilometres of underground cellars lying directly below Epernay's streets holding 200 million bottles of fizz!


We bought a few bottles to take back to the boat as we shall have a special event to celebrate in a couple of months. The tour has certainly made us appreciate why champagne is expensive, but worth it for special occasions! 

So we have now turned the boat around again and will be slowly making our way down the Canal entre Champagne et Bourgogne and back to our winter base at Saint Jean de Losne for our return to the UK in 6 weeks. I have been taking my brave pills and spending more time at the helm which gives the skipper a bit of a break. This morning, whilst I was concentrating on avoiding his rods, a fisherman called out to me and doffed his cap. Probably surprised to see such a little lady behind the wheel of such a big boat!


1 comment:

  1. Hi Chris and Jacqui, I was given your blog address by Marian who I met here in Victoria. I've been enjoying reading about your adventures in France. It's something of a dream for my husband and me to do something like that as a holiday. Great photos and descriptions.

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