Detour to Verdun

Our trip to Verdun was well worth the detour. We got there in two days but have spent a week meandering back stopping off at the places we missed on the way up.

The Canal de la Meuse is canalised river and reaches as far as the border of Belgium. It is the route for many Dutch, Belgian and German boats making their way down to the east and south of France. The Dutch seem to be in the majority however making for competitive mooring. 

We knew the moorings in Verdun were extremely popular and didn't rate our chances much as apparently boats are usually two abreast on both sides of the town quay. We had a plan B to moor a bit out of town and cycle in if we had to. However Lady Luck must have been with us as there was one gap on the pontoon just about the size of our boat. Few anxious moments getting her in as there were some very expensive looking Dutch boats at either end but the Captain handled it skilfully as always!

It was a really great mooring. The Quai de Londres (so called as it was financed by the city of London after the war) is right in the centre of town, on the town steps and lined with restaurants and cafes. What's more, it's all free including water and electricity. We stayed for a sweltering 4 days. There was even a free open air concert on Saturday evening although with the stage being literally on the quayside we had to go out as we couldn't hear ourselves speak on the back of the boat! 

We took refuge at the Estraminet bar in a street behind the quay. They brew their own beer on the premises. Very popular and highly recommended. I found a new summer drink, Leifeman's Fruitesse, delicious.

Although most visitors like us are drawn here for the First World War memorials, steeped in sadness and emotion, the town itself has risen from its ashes and is a cheerful, welcoming, lively place with a history stretching back long before the Great War.

St. Paul's Gate, the only remaining part of the town wall, complete with its two drawbridges

Chaussee Gate, the towns main gate, built around 1380

We decided to take a guided tour to the battlefield and memorials as they were a few kilometres out of Verdun. The commentary was only in French but Chris had done some research and had an English guide book. The Battle of Verdun was fought for 10 long months between February and December 1916, during which time around 800,000 soldiers were killed and very little gain made by either side. A million shells were fired from the German side during the first ten hours. The vegetation has grown back over time but the ground still shows the marks of shelling.

Nine villages were completely destroyed during the Battle of Verdun. Because the villages "died for France" they have not been allowed to disappear. Chapels of remembrance have been erected, markers placed to indicate locations of former businesses, village and street signs have been reinstated and they even have an elected mayor. We visited the village of Fleury-devant- Douaumont.

The Douamont Ossuary shelters the remains of over 130,000 unidentified soldiers. There are low windows outside the ossuary through which you can view some of these remains. A shocking sight but a reminder to the world of the sacrifice made by so many. Remains continue to be recovered to this day.

The cemetry has 15,000 tombs of those who were identified.

The Bayonet Trench is the oldest monument on the battlefield. A concrete shelter covering the trench where 12 bayonets were found upright marking the graves of 12 French soldiers buried by the German troops who overran the trench.

  Symbolising the motto "On ne passe pas" (No way through) this monument represents five soldiers from the different bodies of the army, an infantryman, artillery man, engineer, territorial soldier and horseman.

       

Back in Verdun town we very impressed by our visit to The Underground Citadel. This was the logistics centre during the Battle of Verdun and it was here that the Unknown Soldier was selected before being placed beneath the Arc de Triomphe in Paris to mark the sacrifice of all the soldiers who were unidentified or who disappeared. A little train takes you through the galleries with an audio guide and special effects realistically re enact the activities that went on down here from the bakery to the hospital. A moving experience and well worth the 7euro entrance fee.

On our slow journey back we stopped at the popular mooring in the town of St Milhiel for 3 nights in the company of other friendly boaters.

Apertifs with Wendy and Rolf from Vagabond, moored in front of us, and Sandy from Liberte, moored behind us. A cooling breeze and a chilled rose wine, very enjoyable.

After our little excursion to Verdun we are now back on track on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin heading west to Vitry.  We have never seen such clear water on a canal, you can actually see the bottom and all the plants and fish. Captain is having an early night as he has the 5 kilometre Mauvages Tunnel to face in the morning, sure to focus his mind for an hour or so.