Clamecy to Decize - the end of the Nivernais canal

Well we have made it to the end of the Nivernais canal, all 180 kilometres and 110 locks. We have had a busy couple of weeks with beautiful weather and the company of family and friends, what more could you ask for? The Nivernais certainly lived up to it's reputation for being one of the prettiest canals in Europe, very rural with some stunning scenery. The ship's dog very much enjoyed having company on board, especially Sophie whom he adores, and enjoyed being able to get off the boat for longer towpath walks.

On our first night cruising with them we moored up at a small village Montceaux-le-Comte. Friends had recommended a restaurant there as being the best they had been to in 7 years cruising in France. We decided to treat ourselves to celebrate mine and Sophie's imminent birthdays and Sophie having just successfully completed her doctorate. Lots of French folks drive in to enjoy this place but it was just a short walk from the canal. An excellent 7 course dinner and charming and friendly service. Parfait!

As we continued our cruising the gap between locks became shorter as we climbed towards the summit, a prelude to the Sardy lock staircase, 16 locks all together which can either be completed in a day or in two halves, mooring halfway up overnight. Far from being tedious the scenery as you climb upwards is stunning. Lock keepers accompany you up the flight and one of them recommended we stop overnight at lock number 6 and go to GG's bar. So glad we did, a quite bizarre little place, with the cheapest round of drinks we are ever likely to get. GG is actually sculptor Gerard Mazieres, the bar is an old open flat bottomed barge with a canopy over, old furniture and a huge sound system that was blasting out Bob Marley. All the young student lock keepers on the flight go there when they finish at 7 pm.

Next day we completed the staircase and then the next challenge, a channel of 3 tunnels each one longer than the one before, governed by traffic lights at either end of the total 3 kilometer stretch to ensure only one boat goes through at a time. Not much room to spare for a boat our size. As we break into the light at the end of the first tunnel it feels as if we have passed into Narnia. It is probably the most beautiful place we will ever go to by boat. It's like being alone in an enchanted garden, Sophie and I sat mesmerised on the bow. Magical. When we came out of the last tunnel we emerged into the marina at the summit of Baye and the secret paradise had gone.

Baye has it's charms though and we enjoyed bike rides and walking around the lakes. Mark and Chris got up early and cycled back 15 kilometers along the towpath in the early morning mist to retrieve the car.

We spent one night on a lovely mooring underneath the chateau at Chatillon en Bazois. We had intended to cruise on from there to Pannecot next day but met some other boating friends on Phoenix and Edwina Rose at Fleury so decided to stop there as it looked very pretty and it was good to catch up with the others. Although mysteriously after the four of us returned from a beer at the lock cottage bar/restaurant our bow line had acquired some funny little knots and there were offers of teaching us to tie our ropes properly. And you thought we hadn't noticed you lot!!

Our final day's cruising with Sophie and Mark brought us to Cercy la Tour where they could catch a train back up to Paris in the morning. We had only been moored up about half an hour when a man strolled along, I stepped off the boat and said 'Pardon Monsieur' as the ship's dog gave his usual warning off bark and he said 'hello Jacqui'! Old friends Carol and Terry had come to find us in their camper van en route to southern Italy. After catching up for a couple of hours or so over a cup of tea swiftly followed by a few beers we agreed to spend some time together over the weekend after the family had gone home.

On my birthday that weekend Chris and I got up and cycled 25 km back along the towpath to Fleury to retrieve the car again. Not bad for 55! I feel more like 35. It was a gorgeous day and it is a bonus to cycle along the Nivernais as well as boating on it. The lock keepers cottages all have a different personality, some surrounded by flowers of every colour, others with sculptures all over the garden, some selling honey and wine.

As there was only one restaurant in Cercy we decided that we would have a barbecue over on the campsite where Carol and Terry were staying. The two Terry's on Renaissance had also got to Cercy so I had a lovely birthday evening with old and new friends, even more confusing now there were 3 Terrys! Lady Terry, as I affectionately call her, had gone to the trouble of making me a birthday cake in between locks that morning, how lovely of her. A perfect end to our Nivernais cruise.